Istanbul 1.

Getting really excited and nervous as Sue dropped me to Portland airport. We said a temporary goodbye and I was on my own. The trip from Portland to Istanbul was a long one. I had a four hour flight to Chicago and then another four hour wait during which I needed to find my way around this huge and confusing airport. I found myself standing with a group of Americans who were as lost as I was (despite all of us having asked for directions to the International Terminal). We found our way to a train and a man in uniform on the platform who told us we were in the right place. So we all hopped on the train with fingers and toes crossed and then we discovered that Stop 4 was the International Terminal. Chicago Airport didn’t strike me as particularly user friendly. It’s organized very differently from other airports. I was flying Turkish Airlines and they must have the very last departure gates in the place. It was a long, quiet walk to the departure gate and not much happening when I got there so time for a couple of Tai Chi sets to get the circulation going and to calm me down. Turkish Airlines is good but my slackness in not sorting out my seat was rewarded with a possie at the back of the plane near the warming ovens. So I had a flight of acclimatization to warm Turkish weather. I had a spare seat next to me so managed a bit of a restless sleep on the eleven hour flight.




Arriving in Istanbul airport, I knew I had to get my visa and pay $20 US. I found the right place, lined up with all the others and got it. OK now I’m legal. Good. Now where’s an ATM. Bother, it’s empty. Went through Passport Control, unfortunately after a pretty young thing and so it was made very clear that I was a source of disappointment to the young officer. Went to baggage collection and found a trolley, good start. My bags came without too much delay my green bag was fine but, when I took hold of my big black bag, it just about took me with it – so heavy. Struggled with it off the roundabout and headed out the gates. A sight for sore eyes, as promised a man carrying a paper with my name on it. So he took my trolley and all I had to do was follow him. It was about 5 pm Istanbul time and it was Monday afternoon. The route took us along the water front past the Marmara Sea, old city walls and fish markets and it was love at first sight.

 It was also my introduction to Istanbul traffic. It’s all a game of bluff and horn blowing, as far as I can work out. In actual fact, I think they are very good drivers. They just use different rules. If I wanted to make a quick fortune, I think I’d set up a business fitting replacement brakes, clutches and tyres. Also there are very few older cars in Istanbul – lots of small ones but not too many more than a few years old. Little did I realize that it also had implications for pedestrians.

We arrived at the hotel and I was completely lost but who cares. I was finally In Istanbul. I received a phone call from Kursat, our travel agent, who offered to meet me at the hotel the following morning and show me the way to his office. All sounds good. I wasn’t hungry so I tried to unpack but I couldn’t get my head around it and hit the sack. Not too much jet lag, just overwhelming excitement. Our hotel in Istanbul was newly renovated and just below the Blue Mosque and the centre of the oldest part of Istanbul, Sultanahmet. The rooms were fine, the staff were very helpful and friendly and the restaurant on the top floor had a million dollar view.

 I’m going to miss that view and also the call to prayer five times a day. I feel that if anyone writes a symphony about Istanbul, it should include the sounds of car horns, carpet sellers and the call to prayer.

I didn’t sleep all that well but no time to be wasted and lots things to do. Turkish breakfasts are great. At our hotel, the Ergamon (highly recommended), it consisted of a buffet of fruit, Turkish yogurt (extra yummy), cereals if you wanted, hard boiled eggs, tomatoes, cucumber, various Turkish sausage meats, various Turkish cheeses, breads and homemade cakes and other things I didn’t have enough room to fit in. They also served good coffee, a commodity I soon learned to my sadness was in short supply around Turkey. But the view ……………. absolutely spectacular. I hadn’t heard it the night before but, while I was having breakfast, I heard my first call to prayer. Old Istanbul is full of Mosques and, once it starts, it echoes from one minaret to another around the city. What can I say ……………….. absolutely spectacular.

So Kursat kindly showed up at the arranged time and we set off. He’s a young man and I’m not young and the way to his office is a short walk up a steep hill. He also just about runs, so by the time we got to the top I was very puffed to say the least and finding it hard to keep up with him. I have since come to the conclusion that most Turks were mountain goats in their previous life. I was significantly fitter leaving Turkey than when I arrived because, it seems, there are endless hills in Turkey. After getting the drum from Kursat and some money from the ATM, I was on my own. Oh dear! Two steps from Kursat’s door, woman on your own and every carpet salesman in town can sniff it in the air. I don’t know what I did the first day or two, nothing very constructive. I just walked around and got my bearings, drank a lot of water for the heat and ate in a few cafes. Oh and not to mention getting roped into every second carpet shop in the area.

I suspect I would do quite well at Carpet Seller 101. I think I have heard most of the lines at least a couple of times and I have worked out the sequence of showing carpets to rope you in to the bargain of a lifetime, just for today/this morning, not for everyone but just for you because I can tell you have a good heart, blah blah blah. I was also saturated with apple tea because “I am Turkish. It’s how we show our hospitality. We love Australians. Come in, please. Yes, of course, no obligation to buy.” Despite all this, I had a ball. I discovered that they really come the heavy to try to charm!#*? you into buying, but they are truly hospitable and have a wonderful, cheeky sense of humour. For example, Carpet Seller #27: “Come and sit closer to me. I’m getting older and I can’t hear so well.” Carmel: “It’s OK. I’ll shout. You’ll hear.” At first, I found it very intimidating and frightening but then I started to have fun. It occurred to me that it’s a bit like driving in Istanbul all a game of cat and mouse and if you can have a few laughs while you’re at it, all the better. In the process, I saw some magnificent rugs and learned about how they are made, where they are made, why they are made, how they are bought, how they are repaired and who makes them. And, yes, I did get acouple and I love them. They’re just a kilims but I think they’re beautiful.

More on Istanbul soon.