A woman travelling on her own is a real curiosity, I discovered, for men and women alike and a small, softly spoken woman is often mistaken for prey. It doesn’t matter if you are walking from A to B or looking in a shop window. My first lesson in this was the very first time I stopped to look at something on my very first foray from the hotel. I was ready. I was going to be careful. I wasn’t going to get roped into anything. I’d heard about vendors in Istanbul. So I stopped to watch a woman making a carpet and it was fascinating.
The next thing I knew, she invited me to sit next to her and then she showed me how to make the knots and let me do a few and then she wanted to show me some of the rugs she had made and then I was in the bowls of the earth with a rug salesman. He showed me beautiful rugs, plied me with apple tea, accepted my protestations that I wasn’t buying a rug and then got huffy when I woke up and made my escape. So much for having my wits about me, caught hook, line and sinker!
Other times when I was just walking around, soaking up the atmosphere, getting my bearings, people watching, deciding what to do next, someone would materialize at my side offering to be my guide, asking me if I was married, offering to be my Turkish husband if I said I was married, offering to take me to their cousin’s carpet shop or telling me they had a brother living in Australia. I discovered, in Turkey, it’s easy to pick an Aussie by their freckles so I, of all people, had no hope of passing myself off as an English rose! And, true to form, I got lost many times. The streets of Sultanahmet were never planned, I can assure you. I wasn’t there at the time, granted, but they just go anywhere. They are narrow and cobbled and unpredictable and I spent many hours walking in circles trying to find my way around. They are also teeming with Istanbul drivers AND Istanbul parkers. (I once saw a bus run over a no parking sign and park right there!) My saving grace was that I knew our hotel was just below the Blue Mosque which is in a very elevated position with tall minarets so, night or day, if I could get back there than I could get back to the hotel.
Hippodrome wall & Blue Mosque from hotel. |
Hagia Sophia |
Blue Mosque |
Inside Topkapi Palace |
Basilica Cistern |
Egyptian Obelisk |
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