Hello Everyone! You're on your way to New Mexico. Settle back and enjoy the ride.
The morning after Gavin's fabulous night, Sue took me to the airport (again) and I was on my way to New Mexico. And guess who was on the plane heading back to LA - yes, a rather weary looking Gavin. I was feeling a bit weary myself and I had gone to bed many hours before him, I'm sure. We arrived at Oakland airport only to discover that my connection to Albuquerque was late and I would be stuck there for another five hours. Oh well, more time to read and people watch and read and drink coffee and ..... Once we got off the ground again, I was able to renew my love affair with the Rockies. This time they were not covered in snow but magnificent in the setting sun. Finally made it to Albu (you know the place!) very late and hit the sack.
I arrived in Albuquerque a day before the tour started in search of the Holy Grail - Native American pottery. My personal travel advisor and native American pottery all round enthusiast, Sue, had perused my itinerary, sussed out my desperation and advised me to go early and to buy before the trip started because there didn't seem to be much time allowed for browsing and carefully choosing. So the next morning I was hot to trot. I was also very hot full stop because Albu.... is very hot this time of the year, I discovered. At least 100 degrees F every day. Phew! But almost no humidity. It reminded me of Mt Isa - like living in an oven. So off I went to the Pueblo Indian Cultural Centre and spent quite a few hours watching dancers, perusing their displays, eating Mexican food (without chillies much to the total dismay of the locals) and scanning the gift shop for pottery. As you will see in the photo, the dancers were doing the Buffalo Dance. The men wore a big, heavy buffalo headdress and the women wore layers and layers of clothes. It must have been unimaginably hot dancing in the sun but they continued, much to our pleasure.
The actual display of Indian (they call themselves that) arts and crafts was underground like the kivas they once dug out and it was beautiful and cool. The display left me drooling with firm ideas of what I wanted until ........... I checked the prices in the gift shop. Um, maybe not quite so big. Um, maybe a little bit smaller. Well, maybe microscopic. I retuned to the hotel to sleep on it and then later I met up with my Elderhostel group. Elderhostel don't believe in letting you take it easy. There are lectures and related field trips every day. Not much time for leisurely shopping trips at all.
The first morning was a couple of lectures about the history of the Albuqu.... and also Santa Fe. Then in the afternoon we went to Pueblo Indian Cultural Centre and I was supposed to buy my pottery. But I didn't. Indecision is a terrible thing. Then we went to Old Town Albuque... and I worked up a sweat of gigantic proportions going to a few pottery galleries and getting even more confused. What to do?
After dinner we watched a fascinating film called "The Mystery of Chaco Canyon". It showed how the ancient Indians had aligned their buildings and their roads with each other and events of astrological significance. It makes me feel so small. I'm supposed to be educated but the idea would never cross my mind.
Next morning we had really interesting lectures on the literature of the south west. Among other things, did you know D.H. Lawrence lived the final years of his life and is buried there? I didn't but now I do. I like the way history and literature and art combine to fill in all the bits of juicy gossip about what happened in the past. After lunch, we were off to Santa Fe.
The drive to Santa Fe was interesting watching the land formations and the way the colours changed. Then when we were coming into Santa Fe, it became apparent that all the buildings were modeled in some way on the old adobe style of using mud bricks to build thick walls and then plastering over it with mud to insulate and protect from the weather. They also blend in with the environment quite well.
Our first stop was Museum Hill and I made a beeline for the Museum of Indian Arts and Culture. A quick but enjoyable whizz around and into the gift shop but oh dear..... I could barely afford to breathe in there much less purchase anything. The problem being that they only had works by famous artists and I wasn't looking for an investment, just something that I liked. However, one of the people in the gift shop noticed my interest and she took the time to educate me more in what to look for and what makes a good pot. She also let me handle the pots and you would have been proud of me - I didn't dribble on one! There were other fabulous museums there but I ran out of time.
After dinner we had a lecture about Indian jewellery: the history of it, the significance of different designs, how the best quality jewellery is made and then we were able to see the presenters collection of Indian jewellery. I guess because I'm not interested in silly little trinkets, I didn't find it interesting. Anyone believe that? Our hotel was a busy place. It was full of cowboys in all sorts of fancy gear and cowgirls in big boots. It turned out that the annual Rodeo and Fiesta was about to start and the girls put on a magnificent display of precision riding. I also met the Rodeo Queen in the lift. The hotel was operating on two shifts, day and night. The film crew for Harrison Ford's latest were staying there but were filming at night so they were having sundowners as we were heading out each morning.
The next morning we learned about art in northern New Mexico. It was quite absorbing but it focused mostly on a famous artist from the area, Georgia O'Keeffe, and I was hoping for some more information about Indian art. Oh well, such is life! That afternoon we were to visit some art galleries and then have some free time in downtown Santa Fe. With my newfound knowledge of native American pottery and time running out, I was a (wo)man on a mission. I never knew I could walk so fast and sniff out pottery so well - mind you it's not hard in Santa Fe, there are shops everywhere. I began to realise, as I went from shop to shop, that if you showed any real interest, vendors would drop their prices quite a lot. I had it down to two shops and couldn't make a decision so just I bit the bullet in the shop I was in and bought one. I really love my piece but I know I could have really loved any number of pieces. So here it is...
It will be one of the smaller pieces in my collection but by far the most expensive. Every inch hand made, hand painted and perfect. It's going to a good home.
That night my roomie, Mirjana, and I met up for dinner and went to a fun restaurant with singing waiters and celebrated my purchase with sangria -yum. Then a couple of old broads needed to get back to the hotel for their (beauty?) sleep before the next full day. Santa Fe is such a pretty place and seems to have a pleasant climate. Albuquer... has an elevation of about 5000 feet (do your own conversions) and Santa Fe is at about 7000 feet. It really makes a BIG difference.
The next morning we set off for a little Spanish town, Chimayo. It is by a lovely little river with plenty of greenery around. It is famous for it's little church and the healing powers of the sand. Sadly, our bus was broken into and some people lost binoculars, phones etc. I think the person who felt the worst was our lovely driver, Andy, who had gone into the church to pray.
Our next stop was the Poeh Museum and Gallery, that's code for Carmel heaven. When we were there, they had an exhibition of local artists' work which was to be sold to raise money for a library. It was all to die for but I could have been tempted to die twice for the pottery and the prices were so low. However, I wasn't the first person to spot a bargain and all the pieces I could afford were already sold. So I gritted my teeth and said it wasn't meant to be. As I raced out to the bus I stopped to look at a wonderful sculpture. Part of the museum is a place where local artists make the most amazing sculpture. Because I seemed so wrapped in his piece the artist, Wayne, wanted to show me his current project which was shaping up to be equally magnificent. And so the whole bus waited for me. Oops!
It would only have cost me one pay packet and would have really looked great in my back yard. Nah, just couldn't lift it.
Back to the hotel for lunch and then something I had been looking forward to ... . a lecture and performance by Ronald Roybal. He is a musician who plays native American flute and Spanish guitar, composes music and is of Spanish and pueblo Indian descent. He combined a discussion of Indian traditions and the music associated with them and performance in a magical way. He played some traditional pieces and some of his own. Then he performed some Spanish pieces on his guitar. I didn't want it to finish. Absolutely unforgetable. That evening we had an enthusiastic account of the Civil War in New Mexico but I was fading fast.
Our final day was spent returning to Albuquerque from Santa Fe. Our first stop was at Pecos National Historic Park. It was amazing. We wandered through the ruins of a 700 room pueblo and I went down into a reconstructed kiva and it was so cool. I can see why it was well worth all the time and effort it took to dig out these underground rooms.
This pueblo had been built on higher ground and the view was magnificent and there was that big, beautiful blue sky once again. We walked through the ruins and found wild flowers in among the scrub (don't know the American term for that).
Then finally we came around a bend and there before us was a huge ruin of a Spanish mission, built in 1717, and was right up against the pueblo. It was most impressive and I could have done with some more time to explore.
Back in Albuquerque, we were all grateful for a brief stop at the International Balloon Museum. They were air conditioned and had nice restrooms. Then onwards to the Petroglyph National Monument. Petroglyphs are pictures carved into rocks. These are in a canyon very close to houses in Alba ..you know the place. They are fascinating but we didn't stay long because of the heat. Canyon + black rocks + more than 100 degree heat = great discomfort bordering on distress for some so it was a quick visit.
And so my New Mexico adventure came to an end. Back to the hotel, a final dinner together and the parting of the ways. Nothing to do but get my new treasure safely back to Portland. Or was it? When my flight was landing in Phoenix there were some suspicious noises, so suspicious that we had to change planes. OK only an hours delay. Not to worry. A quick call to Sue and all's well. No problems landing in Portland. Good. Call Sue and she's on her way. Good old/young Sue, my trusty taxi. I'll meet her under the Southwest Airlines sign at the arrivals terminal. Settle back and finish my book. Reading, reading, reading... looking, looking, looking ... phone rings. Poor Sue is caught in a huge traffic jam. Travel for this trip has not been hassle free. Never mind, Alaska awaits.
Lotsaluv
Carmel
The morning after Gavin's fabulous night, Sue took me to the airport (again) and I was on my way to New Mexico. And guess who was on the plane heading back to LA - yes, a rather weary looking Gavin. I was feeling a bit weary myself and I had gone to bed many hours before him, I'm sure. We arrived at Oakland airport only to discover that my connection to Albuquerque was late and I would be stuck there for another five hours. Oh well, more time to read and people watch and read and drink coffee and ..... Once we got off the ground again, I was able to renew my love affair with the Rockies. This time they were not covered in snow but magnificent in the setting sun. Finally made it to Albu (you know the place!) very late and hit the sack.
I arrived in Albuquerque a day before the tour started in search of the Holy Grail - Native American pottery. My personal travel advisor and native American pottery all round enthusiast, Sue, had perused my itinerary, sussed out my desperation and advised me to go early and to buy before the trip started because there didn't seem to be much time allowed for browsing and carefully choosing. So the next morning I was hot to trot. I was also very hot full stop because Albu.... is very hot this time of the year, I discovered. At least 100 degrees F every day. Phew! But almost no humidity. It reminded me of Mt Isa - like living in an oven. So off I went to the Pueblo Indian Cultural Centre and spent quite a few hours watching dancers, perusing their displays, eating Mexican food (without chillies much to the total dismay of the locals) and scanning the gift shop for pottery. As you will see in the photo, the dancers were doing the Buffalo Dance. The men wore a big, heavy buffalo headdress and the women wore layers and layers of clothes. It must have been unimaginably hot dancing in the sun but they continued, much to our pleasure.
The actual display of Indian (they call themselves that) arts and crafts was underground like the kivas they once dug out and it was beautiful and cool. The display left me drooling with firm ideas of what I wanted until ........... I checked the prices in the gift shop. Um, maybe not quite so big. Um, maybe a little bit smaller. Well, maybe microscopic. I retuned to the hotel to sleep on it and then later I met up with my Elderhostel group. Elderhostel don't believe in letting you take it easy. There are lectures and related field trips every day. Not much time for leisurely shopping trips at all.
After dinner we watched a fascinating film called "The Mystery of Chaco Canyon". It showed how the ancient Indians had aligned their buildings and their roads with each other and events of astrological significance. It makes me feel so small. I'm supposed to be educated but the idea would never cross my mind.
Next morning we had really interesting lectures on the literature of the south west. Among other things, did you know D.H. Lawrence lived the final years of his life and is buried there? I didn't but now I do. I like the way history and literature and art combine to fill in all the bits of juicy gossip about what happened in the past. After lunch, we were off to Santa Fe.
The drive to Santa Fe was interesting watching the land formations and the way the colours changed. Then when we were coming into Santa Fe, it became apparent that all the buildings were modeled in some way on the old adobe style of using mud bricks to build thick walls and then plastering over it with mud to insulate and protect from the weather. They also blend in with the environment quite well.
Our first stop was Museum Hill and I made a beeline for the Museum of Indian Arts and Culture. A quick but enjoyable whizz around and into the gift shop but oh dear..... I could barely afford to breathe in there much less purchase anything. The problem being that they only had works by famous artists and I wasn't looking for an investment, just something that I liked. However, one of the people in the gift shop noticed my interest and she took the time to educate me more in what to look for and what makes a good pot. She also let me handle the pots and you would have been proud of me - I didn't dribble on one! There were other fabulous museums there but I ran out of time.
The next morning we learned about art in northern New Mexico. It was quite absorbing but it focused mostly on a famous artist from the area, Georgia O'Keeffe, and I was hoping for some more information about Indian art. Oh well, such is life! That afternoon we were to visit some art galleries and then have some free time in downtown Santa Fe. With my newfound knowledge of native American pottery and time running out, I was a (wo)man on a mission. I never knew I could walk so fast and sniff out pottery so well - mind you it's not hard in Santa Fe, there are shops everywhere. I began to realise, as I went from shop to shop, that if you showed any real interest, vendors would drop their prices quite a lot. I had it down to two shops and couldn't make a decision so just I bit the bullet in the shop I was in and bought one. I really love my piece but I know I could have really loved any number of pieces. So here it is...
That night my roomie, Mirjana, and I met up for dinner and went to a fun restaurant with singing waiters and celebrated my purchase with sangria -yum. Then a couple of old broads needed to get back to the hotel for their (beauty?) sleep before the next full day. Santa Fe is such a pretty place and seems to have a pleasant climate. Albuquer... has an elevation of about 5000 feet (do your own conversions) and Santa Fe is at about 7000 feet. It really makes a BIG difference.
The next morning we set off for a little Spanish town, Chimayo. It is by a lovely little river with plenty of greenery around. It is famous for it's little church and the healing powers of the sand. Sadly, our bus was broken into and some people lost binoculars, phones etc. I think the person who felt the worst was our lovely driver, Andy, who had gone into the church to pray.
Our next stop was the Poeh Museum and Gallery, that's code for Carmel heaven. When we were there, they had an exhibition of local artists' work which was to be sold to raise money for a library. It was all to die for but I could have been tempted to die twice for the pottery and the prices were so low. However, I wasn't the first person to spot a bargain and all the pieces I could afford were already sold. So I gritted my teeth and said it wasn't meant to be. As I raced out to the bus I stopped to look at a wonderful sculpture. Part of the museum is a place where local artists make the most amazing sculpture. Because I seemed so wrapped in his piece the artist, Wayne, wanted to show me his current project which was shaping up to be equally magnificent. And so the whole bus waited for me. Oops!
It would only have cost me one pay packet and would have really looked great in my back yard. Nah, just couldn't lift it.
Back to the hotel for lunch and then something I had been looking forward to ... . a lecture and performance by Ronald Roybal. He is a musician who plays native American flute and Spanish guitar, composes music and is of Spanish and pueblo Indian descent. He combined a discussion of Indian traditions and the music associated with them and performance in a magical way. He played some traditional pieces and some of his own. Then he performed some Spanish pieces on his guitar. I didn't want it to finish. Absolutely unforgetable. That evening we had an enthusiastic account of the Civil War in New Mexico but I was fading fast.
Our final day was spent returning to Albuquerque from Santa Fe. Our first stop was at Pecos National Historic Park. It was amazing. We wandered through the ruins of a 700 room pueblo and I went down into a reconstructed kiva and it was so cool. I can see why it was well worth all the time and effort it took to dig out these underground rooms.
Then finally we came around a bend and there before us was a huge ruin of a Spanish mission, built in 1717, and was right up against the pueblo. It was most impressive and I could have done with some more time to explore.
Back in Albuquerque, we were all grateful for a brief stop at the International Balloon Museum. They were air conditioned and had nice restrooms. Then onwards to the Petroglyph National Monument. Petroglyphs are pictures carved into rocks. These are in a canyon very close to houses in Alba ..you know the place. They are fascinating but we didn't stay long because of the heat. Canyon + black rocks + more than 100 degree heat = great discomfort bordering on distress for some so it was a quick visit.
Lotsaluv
Carmel
2 comments:
I am very glad to hear that you enjoyed your visit to New Mexico. Especially your visit to the Museum of Indian Arts and Culture. I work for that museum as securlty and I'm always glad to hear when someone has a positive experience at my museum. Your written account of your trip was very well done. I loved the lay out as well as all the wonderful pictures. Hope you come back soon. next time you are in the Museum of Indian arts and Culture be sure to ask for Sarge.
http://www.indiancraftshop.com/
This may be a link you'll like both for New Mexico and Alaska
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