New Mexico here I come!

Hello Everyone!  You're on your way to New Mexico.  Settle back and enjoy the ride.


The morning after Gavin's fabulous night, Sue took me to the airport (again) and I was on my way to New Mexico.  And guess who was on the plane heading back to LA - yes, a rather weary looking Gavin.  I was feeling a bit weary myself and I had gone to bed many hours before him, I'm sure.  We arrived at Oakland airport only to discover that my connection to Albuquerque was late and I would be stuck there for another five hours.  Oh well, more time to read and people watch and read and drink coffee and .....  Once we got off the ground again, I was able to renew my love affair with the Rockies.  This time they were not covered in snow but magnificent in the setting sun.  Finally made it to Albu (you know the place!) very late and hit the sack.

I arrived in Albuquerque a day before the tour started in search of the Holy Grail - Native American pottery.  My personal travel advisor and native American pottery all round enthusiast, Sue, had perused my itinerary, sussed out my desperation and advised me to go early and to buy before the trip started because there didn't seem to be much time allowed for browsing and carefully choosing.  So the next morning I was hot to trot.  I was also very hot full stop because Albu.... is very hot this time of the year, I discovered.  At least 100 degrees F every day.  Phew!  But almost no humidity.  It reminded me of Mt Isa - like living in an oven.   So off I went to the Pueblo Indian Cultural Centre and spent quite a few hours watching dancers, perusing their displays, eating Mexican food (without chillies much to the total dismay of the locals) and scanning the gift shop for pottery.  As you will see in the photo, the dancers were doing the Buffalo Dance.  The men wore a big, heavy buffalo headdress and the women wore layers and layers of clothes.  It must have been unimaginably hot dancing in the sun but they continued, much to our pleasure.

 The actual display of Indian (they call themselves that) arts and crafts was underground like the kivas they once dug out and it was beautiful and cool.  The display left me drooling with firm ideas of what I wanted until ........... I checked the prices in the gift shop.  Um, maybe not quite so big.  Um, maybe a little bit smaller.  Well, maybe microscopic.  I retuned to the hotel to sleep on it and then later I met up with my Elderhostel group.  Elderhostel don't believe in letting you take it easy.  There are lectures and related field trips every day.  Not much time for leisurely shopping trips at all.

The first morning was a couple of lectures about the history of the Albuqu.... and also Santa Fe.  Then in the afternoon we went to Pueblo Indian Cultural Centre and I was supposed to buy my pottery.  But I didn't.  Indecision is a terrible thing.  Then we went to Old Town Albuque... and I worked up a sweat of gigantic proportions going to a few pottery galleries and getting even more confused.  What to do?

After dinner we watched a fascinating film called "The Mystery of Chaco Canyon".  It showed how the ancient Indians had aligned their buildings and their roads with each other and events of astrological significance.  It makes me feel so small.  I'm supposed to be educated but the idea would never cross my mind.

Next morning we had really interesting lectures on the literature of the south west.  Among other things, did you know D.H. Lawrence lived the final years of his life and is buried there?  I didn't but now I do.  I like the way history and literature and art combine to fill in all the bits of juicy gossip about what happened in the past.  After lunch, we were off to Santa Fe.

The drive to Santa Fe was interesting watching the land formations and the way the colours changed.  Then when we were coming into Santa Fe, it became apparent that all the buildings were modeled in some way on the old adobe style of using mud bricks to build thick walls and then plastering over it with mud to insulate and protect from the weather.   They also blend in with the environment quite well.










Our first stop was Museum Hill and I made a beeline for the Museum of Indian Arts and Culture.  A quick but enjoyable whizz around and into the gift shop but oh dear.....  I could barely afford to breathe in there much less purchase anything.  The problem being that they only had works by famous artists and I wasn't looking for an investment, just something that I liked.  However, one of the people in the gift shop noticed my interest and she took the time to educate me more in what to look for and what makes a good pot.  She also let me handle the pots and you would have been proud of me - I didn't dribble on one!  There were other fabulous museums there but I ran out of time.

After dinner we had a lecture about Indian jewellery: the history of it, the significance of different designs, how the best quality jewellery is made and then we were able to see the presenters collection of Indian jewellery.  I guess because I'm not interested in silly little trinkets, I didn't find it interesting.  Anyone believe that?  Our hotel was a busy place.  It was full of cowboys in all sorts of fancy gear and cowgirls in big boots.  It turned out that the annual Rodeo and Fiesta was about to start and the girls put on a magnificent display of precision riding.  I also met the Rodeo Queen in the lift.  The hotel was operating on two shifts, day and night.  The film crew for Harrison Ford's latest were staying there but were filming at night so they were having sundowners as we were heading out each morning.

The next morning we learned about art in northern New Mexico.  It was quite absorbing but it focused mostly on a famous artist from the area, Georgia O'Keeffe, and I was hoping for some more information about Indian art.  Oh well, such is life! That afternoon we were to visit some art galleries and then have some free time in downtown Santa Fe.  With my newfound knowledge of native American pottery and time running out, I was a (wo)man on a mission.  I never knew I could walk so fast and sniff out pottery so well - mind you it's not hard in Santa Fe, there are shops everywhere.  I began to realise, as I went from shop to shop, that if you showed any real interest, vendors would drop their prices quite a lot. I had it down to two shops and couldn't make a decision so just I bit the bullet in the shop I was in and bought one.  I really love my piece but I know I could have really loved any number of pieces.  So here it is...

It will be one of the smaller pieces in my collection but by far the most expensive.  Every inch hand made, hand painted and perfect.  It's going to a good home.

That night my roomie, Mirjana, and I met up for dinner and went to a fun restaurant with singing waiters and celebrated my purchase with sangria -yum.  Then a couple of old broads needed to get back to the hotel for their (beauty?) sleep before the next full day.  Santa Fe is such a pretty place and seems to have a pleasant climate.  Albuquer... has an elevation of about 5000 feet (do your own conversions) and Santa Fe is at about 7000 feet.  It really makes a BIG difference.

The next morning we set off for a little Spanish town, Chimayo.  It is by a lovely little river with plenty of greenery around.  It is famous for it's little church and the healing powers of the sand.  Sadly, our bus was broken into and some people lost binoculars, phones etc.  I think the person who felt the worst was our lovely driver, Andy, who had gone into the church to pray.

Our next stop was the Poeh Museum and Gallery, that's code for Carmel heaven.  When we were there, they had an exhibition of local artists' work which was to be sold to raise money for a library.  It was all to die for but I could have been tempted to die twice for the pottery and the prices were so low.  However, I wasn't the first person to spot a bargain and all the pieces I could afford were already sold.  So I gritted my teeth and said it wasn't meant to be.  As I raced out to the bus I stopped to look at a wonderful sculpture.  Part of the museum is a place where local artists make the most amazing sculpture.  Because I seemed so wrapped in his piece the artist, Wayne, wanted to show me his current project which was shaping up to be equally magnificent.  And so the whole bus waited for me.  Oops!

It would only have cost me one pay packet and would have really looked great in my back yard.  Nah, just couldn't lift it.

Back to the hotel for lunch and then something I had been looking forward to ... . a lecture and performance by Ronald Roybal.  He is a musician who plays native American flute and Spanish guitar, composes music and is of Spanish and pueblo Indian descent.  He combined a discussion of Indian traditions and the music associated with them and performance in a magical way.  He played some traditional pieces and some of his own.  Then he performed some Spanish pieces on his guitar.  I didn't want it to finish.  Absolutely unforgetable.  That evening we had an enthusiastic account of the Civil War in New Mexico but I was fading fast.

Our final day was spent returning to Albuquerque from Santa Fe.  Our first stop was at Pecos National Historic Park.  It was amazing.  We wandered through the ruins of a 700 room pueblo and I went down into a reconstructed kiva and it was so cool.  I can see why it was well worth all the time and effort it took to dig out these underground rooms.

This pueblo had been built on higher ground and the view was magnificent and there was that big, beautiful blue sky once again.  We walked through the ruins and found wild flowers in among the scrub (don't know the American term for that).

Then finally we came around a bend and there before us was a huge ruin of a Spanish mission, built in 1717,  and was right up against the pueblo.  It was most impressive and I could have done with some more time to explore.

The Big Night Out.

I never expected to attend a film premiere much less to know the person playing the lead role and now I have done both.  And what a happy wonderful night it was.  Sue's son, Gavin, is working hard to get into the film industry.  He had a small role in the blockbuster "Twilight" and has done many other roles in various genre in Hollywood, however, this was his first leading role.  It is in an independent film, "The Gray Area" and I really enjoyed watching Gavin and the film.  If it comes your way, I strongly recommend it.  It's different and it's powerful and Gavin does a great job.  Sue was a very proud mum on the night and still is very proud of Gavin's achievements.  I was just thrilled to be there and be part of it all as well as having my photo taken with a gorgeous hunk of a leading man.  Lucky me and go Gavin!  It was great to catch up with you and see your craft.

The long awaited Vancouver Island

Hiya.

Ever since I first went to Vancouver about 20 years ago, I've been told I should have visited Victoria and the Buchart Gardens.  So here I am and rearing to go.  I had decided to do a whale watching tour on the way over to Victoria and spend a bit more time exploring the area rather than fly of take the usual direct ferry.  So I dragged myself out of bed, gobbled down some breakfast and hit the road/ water?  As luck would have it, there were only five passengers on a boat that would usually carry a lot more so we more or less got individual attention.  I was even more lucky to have calm seas - no sign of sea sickness, phew!  The crew on the boat were all very passionate young people who were very knowledgeable about wild life in the area and around the world.We headed off in search of orcas and on the way passed some of the many beautiful bay islands.  This would appear to be Vancouver's version of Coochie.

  We saw harbour seals and a bald eagle.  I know you marvel at my wildlife photography.  Just to be intimidating there was an Australian travel writer and photographer on board as well.  They haven't requested any of my shots yet,

It was a lovely, restful journey and it took quite a while for us to reach the whales.  And there they were right in front of us.  Apparently they were a pod of locals who feed and breed along the coast.  They did breach a couple of times and there were babies.  So....spot the whale.......

  Then it was time to head for Victoria and it didn't take very long to get there.  So goodbye to our crew and on with the usual routine of check in and get your bearings.

That afternoon I booked my trip to the Buchart Gardens and tried to book a trip out of town but no luck there so Victoria it is.  I went for a walk around, trusty map in hand, and started to feel comfortable about it all.  I had lunch at a famous bakery where there some American sailors.  Walked down the street and there were some Chinese sailors and then some Canadian sailors and then some English and even some Aussies.  So many men and women in uniform and all so young!  Do they take them before they finish high school these days?  As it turned out, it was the centenary of the Canadian Navy and they were there to help celebrate.  Over the next couple of days there were fly overs and marches and all sorts of official celebrations.

On my journey around Victoria I had noticed a modest little lodging overlooking the harbour called the Empress Hotel.  Apparently royalty and famous people stay there.  I thought my little room had much more of an individual charm about it, myself.  But I couldn't resist the invitation to have a cocktail on the Verandah, darling.  And of all things, they even had tasteful royal blue knee rugs to match my jeans.  How terriblair, terriblair thoughtful, don't you think?  The recommended cocktail was a 1908 to celebrate the opening of this quaint little place and it was quite nice.  Could have gone another one but....  well .... I was a bit short on small change.  I noticed an Australian couple standing in front of The Empress which is difficult to fit into a photo frame.  The husband was lining up the shot and the wife was leaning nonchalantly on a post saying through gritted teeth "Don't worry about the flag on top, Just take the photo!"  "Please take the photo!"

Victoria has some lovely old buildings and some very quaint shops.  There's a real touch of England about the place and the things in the shops.  There's plenty to explore and lots of interesting cafes, restaurants and shops.  Because Victoria is the capitol of British Columbia, their Parliament House is there as well.  There are great museums and galleries where you can learn more about their history and the indigenous people.  I went to the supermarket and bought some goodies for dinner which I ate by the harbour.  It's such a busy place - boats coming and going,a cruise liner in dock, little water taxis zooming back and forth across the harbour and water planes landing and taking off continually.  It's a hive of activity on land as well with little market stalls and buskers along the front and people strolling around.  There is a scenic walkway that will take you well beyond the downtown area with lovely views of the water.

The next morning I had a leisurely breakfast at my hotel and wandered down to the bus for my visit to the Buchart Gardens and there on the bus was Sandy, one of the crew from the day before.  So we joined forces for the trip.  Sandy had studied some horticulture but I was completely in the dark.  As I had been warned, the gardens are totally overwhelming.  They were started early last century by Jennie  Buchart.  Her husband had quarried limestone in the area for his cement plant and she decided to make something beautiful out of the quarry and the gardens grew and grew.  There is the Sunken Garden, the Rose Garden, The Japanese Garden, the Mediterranean Garden and the Italian Garden, sculpture made out of moss and a couple of fountains all in 55 acres of land with 50 gardeners.  It takes a long time to make your way around it and, by the time we reached the Mediterranean Garden, Sandy and I agreed we needed a gelato to keep our strength up.  Mmmm, maple and walnut.  It's impossible to represent the scale and beauty of the place in photos so I would recommend a visit for yourself if you haven't already been.

Not quite the end.

Hello Everyone

My arrival in Vancouver was not auspicious but it was a long time since my last visit and I had been looking forward to it but I was extremely tired.  So I went to my hotel, got scolded for checking in early by a very efficient young lady at reception and promptly went to bed (obviously very concerned about the inconvenience I had caused- not).  I slept the sleep of the dead for about four hours and then set off on a reconnaissance mission.  Because I will be returning to Vancouver in July for the ICED conference, I decided to seek out places I would like to explore more then and booked my self on a tour of Vancouver and it was great.  We went to the area the conference will be held and we went to the area where I will be staying so now I have my bearings.  I also met Anne and Cedric from Grafton who had travelled across Canada for about three weeks and were in the last few days of their holiday.  They had had a wonderful trip.

We went to Queen Elizabeth Park with fabulous views of the city and surrounding mountains.  (Told you I had lots of photos of mountains!) It's Graduation time all over the continent and there were many young people all dressed up in their finery up there to have photos taken and the odd bride or two.

We went to Granville Island which is Carmel heaven - lots of markets and hand made things.  Oh, it also sells local produce and yummy food.

Rockies train trip.

I spent a lovely day in Jasper - some of it in sunshine and some in rain.  Some of the houses are built above and below ground.  I'm guessing it's for insulation.  My own hotel had an interesting configuration.  The rooms were in a U shape around a big fire place and restaurant at one end and a heated swimming pool at the other end.  Maybe I should have used it when there was no hot water the next morning!

The town is smaller than Bamff but is a rail centre for the area and so has a feel of a real place with real people.  I shouted myself to a nice Greek (couldn't resist the aromas as I walked past) meal and a drink. I was very hungry and felt as if I could eat a horse (or an elk or a bison or a deer but not a bear).

There are some lovely old buildings in Jasper.  The first ranger's house and the train station are among them.  Because it was raining at first, I went to a museum that had all the local wildlife (stuffed) and once again revisited the difference between elk, deer, moose and caribou.  Just when I think I have them sorted out, someone says something that makes me question it all over again.  There was a shop that sold north western crafts and I think I could have been tempted to sell my soul for some of them.  So beautiful.  Handcuffs might be the go in Alaska.

And then it was time for what I came all this way for - my train trip through the Rockies.  It all started very well with my lift to the station from a charming Frenchman who kept hugging me and then on to the train.  I had to laugh when I saw my single sleeper - certainly not room to swing a cat but a marvel in economy of space.  I guess the floor space was about 1 1/2 metres by 1 1/2 metres and it contained a seat, a pull down bed, a toilet and a basin AND a little basket of goodies with soap, shampoo etc as well as ear plugs.  How very considerate.

And so my adventure began.  The train was built in the 1950s and so does not have all the modern conveniences and, like my experiences on Amtrak, seems to have a tradition about it.  I went up to the viewing cabin and it was great. We were greeted with champagne.  Ooee, very nice!  I met a girl (like I'm a girl) from Germany.  Her name was Dorothy and she too was traveling alone.  We had some good chats about Germany and Australia and took lots of photos of trees.  As you can see from this picture, although we were up higher than the train, we still were not higher than the trees and just when you thought you had a great shot lined up another ridge of trees rushed past.  Everyone was in the same boat.  You had to shoot and hope for the best.  Dorothy had been on the train since Toronto so she knew the drum well and truly.  She had stopped taking photos of trees.  

So more mountains rivers and waterfalls.  All stunning.  But I got pretty sick of lodge pole pine trees!

I had dinner with a Canadian couple who would not for love nor money believe that Australians say "Eh" too.  I did notice some of our sayings in their colloquialisms which you would never hear in the US.  Must be the English influence

OK problem solving time.  Time for bed (but still daylight).  How to organise suitcase, clothes and bed all in that space.  I decided to postpone any cognitive activity and went down the hall for a shower -very small one.  Then it was time for thinking -HELP!  So I worked backwards.  If I put my luggage under the seat (which would become a bed), then I could pull the bed down.  But then I couldn't access the toilet or the suitcase.  So get every thing out of suitcase, do what ever needs to be done, hang up clothes for tomorrow so I don't look like a tramp, put suitcase under seat and pull down bed. Phew!  But I forgot my book.  Can I go to sleep without reading?  Um.  No I can't.  So put up bed, pull out suitcase, take out book, put suitcase under seat, pull down bed and crawl in.  Glad I'm not 6 feet tall.  However, for my purposes the bed was very comfortable, the sheets were lovely and fresh and the pillows fluffy.  I didn't need the earplugs.  Just as well because I would have had to put the bed up again!

I woke up in time to see the sun coming up but the rhythm of the train was very relaxing.  The train stopped somewhere in the middle of the night and smokers were advised of the stop but I didn't avail myself of that.  Imagine having to do the bed thing again and I'm sure the world can do without the sight of me standing on the platform in my pyjamas looking miserable and cold.  I think it was Kamloops.

Being on a train is a bit like being on a plane, you just sit around until the next meal and the meals were yummy.  The staff on the train were really friendly and helpful and cheerful and I have to say that the passengers were too.  The attendants were very helpful with tips for getting around Vancouver and what not to miss.

A few more snow capped mountains etc and we were heading for Vancouver.  Of all days for the train to be an hour early.  And Vancouver did not put on her best face to welcome me.