The Kenai Peninsula.

So, the next part of our Alaskan adventure involved a day on a bus driving from Denali to Moose Pass.  Yes, I did smirk a bit when I first heard it too.  Thought it sounded like something from an old movie but, needless to say, it was named for obvious reasons and it's a great place to stay.  It took about eight hours in a very comfortable coach to make the journey so there was plenty of time to sleep, read, listen to Radio National podcasts I had downloaded before we left Portland and revisit some of the places we had seen on the way up (like Wasilla!!  Oh do forgive me Sarah.)  We did stop at one place to stretch our legs which was a memorial to local Inuit soldiers who had died in war.  I was really taken with the sculpture.

More snow capped mountains!

Our lunch stop was a really cold, bleak affair.  Hey, where's that Alaskan sunshine?  We had been told that the Kenai Peninsula would be colder than Denali but how is that possible, it's a long way south?  Eight hours worth. The Kenai Peninsula is lush and of course it has many snow capped mountains.  They're either very high or the clouds were low, maybe both, because we couldn't see the tops of many.  We also discovered that Alaska has three million lakes.  Is that possible?

We finally got to Moose Pass and our hotel.  It crept up on me.  We're in Moose Pass?  I didn't see it coming.  That's because it's a tiny community sprinkled along the highway but what a great place to stay.  I'm sure we stayed there because it's only 30 minutes from Seward, the capital of Alaska, and it's a way to keep costs down but it was wonderful to spend some time in a small Alaskan community and to hear from the locals about their lives in that part of the world.

Trail Lake Lodge and surrounds.

Nestled in the surrounds of the Trail Lake Motel at Moose Pass was the Community Hall, the Post Office, the volunteer Fire Brigade, the one teacher school, a couple of houses and the General Store.  The town contained more than that but that was the heart of it.  In many ways, it reminded me of some places I've visited in Australia.  However, one difference is these people get snowed in during the winter (instead of flooded in in the summer) and have to wait for the snow ploughs to clear the roads so they can get into Seward for supplies and medical needs (instead of waiting for supplies to be dropped from hercules planes etc).

The motel bus.

The Pavilion and Ben in the foreground.

That evening, in fact every morning and evening, we met in the amazing Pavilion of the motel.  It is made from an abundant local timber, spruce, but instead of sleek, perfect timber, they had used trees with huge imperfections in them and it was stunning.  I'd love a house incorporating such timber.  If you click on the photo, you can see one such log in the top right.   Our mother hen/responsible adult/organiser for this part of our adventure was Ben.  He lived just across the road and was married to a local lady and so almost qualified as a local.  (You know how it goes.)
Did you know that moose racks (horns) can weigh 40 pounds or more?  Fancy carrying that around on your head!  I'd be a bit cranky too.  I lifted one horn with some effort and that was 22 pounds.  They have two of them to carry around.

The next morning when I headed over to the Pavilion for breakfast, I discovered why the motel was so named.  It is on the edge of a beautiful lake.  Wow, my new Tai Chi studio!  My room at home is going to seem very wanting after all these beautiful places over here.  On the positive side, I will have my two little companions to step over every morning.  I hope they remember how to do it after all this time!  The lake has many moods: a bit brooding like this, absolutely glorious when the sun is out and the mountains are reflected in it but always very peaceful.  In winter, I'm told, it freezes over.  I'd love to experience that.

We went to see a native archeological site, K'Beq.  While there wasn't an enormous amount to see, the entertainment was spectacular. The woman who was in charge of the place was a fountain of information about the way of life of the indigenous people, how they lived, their family life, what they ate, their language and their dances.  The site is beside a river which was full of salmon at the time and set among a forest of trees.    This lady's enthusiasm carried that day and we had an enormous amount of fun learning some of the songs and dances.

That afternoon, we went on rafts down the river and it wasn't half as scary as I expected.   We saw how the salmon season was in full swing with some fishing spots numbered and defined to avoid arguments about territory.  There were families out with their children and their dogs all trying to hook a salmon or two.  There were people in dingies drifting down the river with the flow which was quite strong.  There were lots of bird life.  And the sun came out and it was quite hot in all our gear.

After disrobing, quite an undertaking with all our gear, it was back to Moose Pass for dinner and then a chat/ scientific discussion about the geology of the area by one of those young, enthusiastic and very knowledgeable young rangers.  Believe me, I didn't need any rocking to get to sleep on this trip.

The next morning at breakfast I heard a very good suggestion from one of our group.  There are some of us who are just not rise and shiners, so why not allocate a table for us.  We can sit there in silence and scowl to our hearts' content and not offend anyone.  That got my vote.

After breakfast, we went to Seward for an interesting morning at the Alaska Sea Life Centre.  It was establised about 20 years ago with some of the money from Exon Valdeez settlement.  We heard about their work there, the research they do, their animal rescue program and plenty more.  One young worker told us about her job as a trainer.  it was her job to rain the animals to perform task that would make it possible for the vets to monitor them such as getting on and staying on scales or keeping their mouth open for dental checks.  I want her job (but the place does smell a lot like fish!)  Then we were free to wander around and see the displays.  Of course, I wanted to see the otters.  Aw, none on display.  However, I did discover that these cute little creatures have the thickest fur of any mammal.  They have no blubber and have to eat constantly to keep their temperature and energy up.  At a later stage I felt some otter fur and it is beautiful and thick and soft.  The display of sea birds was fantastic.  You could view them form the surface and then go downstairs and watch them diving for food.  For sheer overwhelming size and impressiveness,  meet Woody, the big male sea lion.  At the time he was a bit light on at 1800 pounds but would build up to his mating weight of about 2300 pounds over the summer.  I hope he cooperates with his trainers, a cranky 2300 pound sea lion would be a bit intimidating.  Photos compliments of Suzanne Graham.

Flexible too!

Big is beautiful baby!

Hello Dolly!

Forgotten highlights of Denali.

Hello again from Denali.

It occurred to me that I should explain my use of the term and I think it's the same use as the locals.  Denali is the name the native people gave to Mt McKinley thousands of years ago.  It means "the high one".  The locals and the rangers now call the mountain Denali instead of Mt McKinley.  The National Park is Denali National Park, sometimes shortened to Denali.  There is also a town called Denali.  It all sounds a bit confusing but hopefully sorts itself out in context.  And, by the way, there is also a place called Glitter Gulch somewhere close by and that is where the shops and restaurants are but I didn't visit Glitter Gulch so I'm not sure exactly where it is.

However, there are a few little gems (for me) that weren't included in my previous post.  Firstly was my "Tai Chi Studio".  

Tai Chi Studio

It was a quiet little verandah outside the office at the Denali Education Centre where we stayed.  It overlooked the Nenano River, as did our cabin, and there was the constant sound of the glacial water rushing past.  I can still hear the sound when I think of it and it still gives me great pleasure.  It was wonderful to go there to do Tai Chi.  I would close my eyes and listen to the river and the other sounds of the National Park across the way, feel the warmth of the sun and start my bow.  Just beautiful.  I tried doing the set with my eyes closed but I didn't get very far....  Besides it was such a magnificent scene to be a small part of.

Another little gem I found was an inukshuk by the Nenano River.  I became enchanted by them when I was in Canada.

The little inukshuk.

They are rocks piled in certain ways and are/were made by the inuit people to communicate among different groups important things for survival in the harsh climate of the arctic north.  They tell of such things as the directions for safe trails across the ice and snow, where supplies have been stored or where a safe haven can be found in inhospitable places.  An inukshuk was the symbol used for the Winter Olympics in Canada and it's message to visitors was "Safe passage, shelter and food".  So I was delighted to find this spontaneous little inukshuk on the river bank.  I don't know its message but I'm sure it was a good one.  This little section of the river will one day become a billabong but Nan had a much more scientific name for it (which of course I can't remember).

Salmon fishing.

As we sped along on the train trip from Anchorage to Denali, we passed a campsite out in the middle of nowhere.  It was your typical rough, temporary campsite.  One of the men was standing casting out into the river and swirling close by were hundreds of fish - salmon.  Guess they had plenty of Omega-3 that weekend.

Looks can be deceiving.  I'm not really an alcoholic!

Free time on an Elderhostel trip is scarce but we did manage to find a very pleasant spot to reflect on the wonders of each day.  

A message from above.

More Alaskan wild life.

Another puzzle.  It has a large wing span.  It's migratory.  The males fly faster than the females.  It has a large appetite for man made food.  What is this Alaskan wild life frequently seen in the skies in summer?

The Kenai Peninsula is next, I promise.

Carmel

The BIG Holiday: Dogs in Alaska

The BIG Holiday: Dogs in Alaska

http://www.lisafrederic.com/

Dogs in Alaska

Note:  if you see a little sign at the bottom that says "Read more", it means I haven't run out of hot air and there's more to read if you like.  I notice a comment from those concerned about cruelty to dogs during the race for your information.

When thinking about Alaska in the past, I had been curious about the sled dogs.  As a dog lover, who wouldn't be?  However, I really hadn't given it much thought.  I knew I was looking forward to visiting some kennels and cuddling puppies and meeting some dogs but, as is the way of Alaska, I should have been prepared to be overwhelmed by the whole experience.

Our first visit was to the kennels housing the sled dogs used by the Park Rangers in Denali.  As  little aside, the rangers I met anywhere in the US were all young, enthusiastic, knowledgeable, polite and extremely cheerful young people who were just thrilled you were coming to visit and wanted to share their enthusiasm with you.

The young lady who talked to us about her job at the kennels was just the same.  First we were free to wander around and meet the dogs.  My first impression was that they all looked a bit scruffy but I soon realised they were working dogs and not suburban prima donnas who were regularly groomed.  (I'm sure Jock wishes he could join their ranks when it comes to brush time.)  And they are not your thorough bred Huskies.  Nevertheless, they are divine.

It was a hot day when we visited the kennels and the dogs, like us were not too enthusiastic about it.  However there was no need to fear being snarled at or barked at because they just love people.  Everyone who wanted them got lots of dogie cuddles and licks that day but it still wasn't enough for me.  The ranger explained that the sled dogs are not an officially recognised breed of dogs because they are bred for a purpose not a set of specifications.   They are bred for long legs for running through the snow, for endurance not speed, for their temperament and keenness to please the musher, for paws that facilitate running in snow, for long, bushy tails that can wrap around their nose and keep them warm when sleeping outside in the snow and probably a lot more.

The dogs and sleds are used to patrol Denali National Park in winter.  Noisy machines are not allowed and there are very few roads anyway.  It is also one way of maintaining an important part of Alaskan history.  The rangers have cabins (as you have seen) set up in various positions in the park and they patrol from there.  These cabins were once accommodation for workers who built some of the roads and were moved to various places around the park for use mostly in winter.  They are set up with food and provisions ready for the winter.  Mostly the dogs sleep outside in the snow.  Brrr!  I hope I'm not a sled dog in my next life!  Here's a brief glimpse of some of the rangers' equipment.

So after some information giving, it was time to hook up the dogs.  And I thought the rangers was enthusiastic .... the noise was deafening!  They all wanted a turn!  In the end five lucky ones were chosen and they were nearly jumping out of their skins to start.  It was absolute madness with dogs barking because they were excited to be going and other dogs barking because they wanted a turn.  Usually eight or ten dogs pull a fully loaded sled but this time it was only five because there was only the ranger and off she went hanging on for grim death.  Those in the know were most surprised when she rounded the corner on the home straight and had not been thrown off - no snow to slow the dogs down and a light load into the bargain.   I really wanted her job!

While she talked some more about the dogs and their role in the park other kennel personal came and gave the dogs water and sat with them because they wanted to go again and were really vocal about it.  I wonder if kennel workers get industrial deafness.  Those dogs have very loud voices.

One more quick whip around for a few more pats and licks and I had to leave.

Alaska at last.

 Hello everyone from a happy camper.

It was 3rd July and I was sitting on the plane again watching the ground crew going through the very familiar routine of preparing for take off.  Then all of a sudden I thought "Pinch yourself, Carmel, you're finally making it to Alaska!"  And that's when the excitement set in.  I was finally achieving a long held desire to visit Alaska.  I don't really know for sure why I had wanted to do this, I just knew I did.  Maybe I had some vague expectation of excitement and it certainly was going to be a bit different from Brisbane and anything else I had experienced before.  So off we went.  We flew out of Portland to Seattle where I had a celebratory massage at the airport and then we were on our way to Anchorage.  The flight followed the coastline for a while and there were wonderful visions of green islands, blue sea, blue sky, white clouds and sandy cliffs and, because it was the 4th July long weekend, I could see lots of boats out on the water way below.  Then it was up through the clouds and there we stayed until we descended to Anchorage.  What happened to the sun?

As we only had one evening in Anchorage and having been told there were great local markets open, Sue and I dropped our bags at the motel and hot footed it in the appropriate direction.  It looked a tad like rain but we were assured it looked like that every day and it hadn't rained in ages (but we took our umbrellas just in case).

After a hard trudge around the markets, which were an Alaskan version of Eumundi, it was time to eat.  We stumbled across this great little wine bar and celebrated our arrival with fresh salmon and some yummy wines.  After all, one cannot go to Alaska and not have salmon (can one?)  It was early to bed for an early start the next day.  It doesn't happen often, but us two slow starters were the first ones to breakfast.  That's worth a scratch on the wall.  From there it was off to the railway station for our much anticipated Great Train Ride up the middle of Alaska to Denali.

We had seats in a bubble top carriage and the views were spectacular.  Just to ensure we knew we were in sub-arctic zones, the air conditioning was freezing and it seemed impossible to regulate it.  Wish we'd worn our long johns that day.  We were treated to wide rivers, big mountains and .... Wasilla.... home to Mrs S. Palin, the great exponent of considered and intelligent thought.  And, no, she can't see Russia from her back door.  However it does have a lovely lake and the locals were making the most of the above freezing temperatures and sun baking on its scenic shores.  We were told that in Winter, the lake freezes over and the locals make an 8 hole golf course on it.  We were beginning to get a taste of making the most of conditions, Alaskan style. It reminded me of boat races on the Todd River.  Onwards the train went up through wild rivers and more snow capped mountains, all the while getting higher and wilder.  Ah, the sun came out!  Time to celebrate, don't you think?

There is a small line that runs off the main line and goes to Talketna.  That is the only line in the US that allows the locals to flag down the train.  It's their only way of getting supplies, mail etc.  When we got to Denali station, we were loaded on a yellow school bus and taken to the Denali Education Centre which was to be home for the next six nights.  It is definitely basic accommodation but a great place to be.  It is just across the river from Denali National Park and our cabin was beside the river.  Every morning and night, the first and last thing we heard was the water rushing past our window.  So special.

The Education Centre comes equipped with it's own beach, yellow school bus (no wonder there are so may chiropractors in the US!), magnificent surroundings, cheerful staff and resident owls. 

Our cabin was the last green roof on the right.

However, this is no holiday camp.  Breakfast at 7am every morning and go, go, go until the last lecture finished after dinner at night.  And I'm not complaining.  Our days were full of learning and seeing and experiencing.

Alaska was first settled thousands of years ago by the Athabascan people who came across the then Bering land bridge from Asia.  They and other native people had the wilderness to themselves until the Russians showed up in about 1740 and then the US bought it from Russia in 1866 for the grand total of  $7.2 mill.  After the Klondike Gold Rush, people started to move across the border from Canada and the US and so the next chapter of Alaska's history began.  However I was surprised to discover that, even today, there are only about 500 000 people in the whole of Alaska and half of those live in Anchorage so the rest of the country is sparsely populated.  

We had lectures by passionate, experienced and knowledgeable people in their fields.  One such person was Nan.  She talked us through the geology, the history, the wildlife and more of the local area.  She is a trained scientist and has lived in Alaska for many years and she is passionate about preserving it for the future.  She knows so much, loves talking about it and has wonderful slides and exhibits and tales to keep the sleepiest person enthralled.  She also took us on a number of walks in the area and showed us what she had discussed in class.  It was from local people like Nan that we started to get a glimpse of what life in Alaska is really like and how the people and the animals live a very different life from those in most places because of the climate and how it shapes the environment.  

We were very lucky because every day we were there was sunny.  This is especially significant considering there are only somewhere between 60 - 100 growing days a year in Alaska.  In that time, trees have to grow, plants have to bloom and bear fruit, animals have to build up after the winter, have their babies and mate again.  It's all very frantic.  When we were in Denali, it was just past the Summer solstice so the days were very long.  It was still light at 10.30 pm and I don't know when it got light - long before I opened my eyes.  Every plant and animal makes the most of daylight to grow and build up for the winter.  It takes a spruce tree 15 years to grow 10 - 15 cm.  There is a layer of permafrost below the soil, which is not very fertile to start with, and that stops roots growing deep and getting more nutrients.

We went on other trips deeper into the National Park.  The wild life is there but sparsely spread around the mountains and huge valleys carved out by glaciers in the past.  We saw moose, bears, a fox, wolves, hares, birds of varying sorts, caribou, arctic ground squirrels...  I was surprised to see that the grizzlies were blonde in Alaska.  In terms of warnings, in Canada and Yellowstone it had been all about bears but in Alaska it was moose and bears and the warnings were deadly serious.  I had never realised how big moose are.  I measured myself against their height and, at their lowest point. they are about 12 cm taller than me and big, fast buggers.  I can't work out for the life of me why Americans and Canadians say they're frightened of spiders and snakes!

Huge river valley carved out by glaciers.

River with glacial water (L).  Fresh (R).

A fox pointing ready to pounce.

A grizzly grazing - a safe distance!

Rudolf's cousin building up for the Christmas run.

We were also introduced to the Athabascan culture and history by a proud woman at a place they call Inspiration Point.  A place to come and think and enjoy the quietness and the beauty of nature - and that it certainly was.   We were shown a cabin that the rangers use in Winter when they are on patrols of the park with their sled dogs.  It's a very old cabin with none of the comforts of home but plenty of security against bears.

Rangers' winter patrol cabin.

All the comforts of home.  Where's the tap?

The last great sight for this installment is Denali (Mt McKinley).  It's the highest mountain in the USA and is over 21 000 feet high.  It's so high it generates its own weather.  Most of the time its peaks are covered in cloud but, on one of our visits into the park, the clouds cleared and it was magnificent.  Although I had been more interested in seeing the wild life, I was still stunned by the sight.  Click on the photo if you can't see it clearly.  I was still 100 miles away when the photo was taken.

One last thing - a puzzle.  Check out the next photo and see if you can work out what it's all about.

Puzzle picture.

WARNING:  If you don't like dogs, don't read the next Alaskan installment.

Lotsaluv

Carmel

Athabascan elder.

Quick note.

Hi Everyone.

Just letting you know that I'm leaving for Alaska tomorrow, 3rd July, and will return on 15th July.  However, I then go to Vancouver for the ICED Conference 17th July and return on 24th July so there won't be any more blogs until after then.  BUT, I will be thinking of you and keep those emails and comments rolling in.

Luv yas all.

Carmel alias Dr L(ivingstone) as Sue calls me.

From the Japanese Gardens in Portland